Family

In the centre of Paris, a small space that's relaxed, colourful and perfectly laid out.

julien-sebbag-et-julien-sebban

At

Julien Sebbag by Julien Sebban

The joy, the sharing. The cheerful colours, the warmth of a traditional dish. As the end of year celebrations approach, certain values can be seen as a refuge, guardians of ancestral traditions and a profound form of humanity. Recent horrifically upsetting events only make more necessary the frivolity, however fervent which emanates from the two sectors that The Socialite Family is taking an interest in this week: a certain style of carefree and happy architecture, and tradition and ritual redesigned, modernised and applied to a cuisine with ancient origins. Julien Sebbag is the chef. Julien Sebban is the architect. We linger for a while musing on the amusing similarity of their surnames. A similarity that goes even further. Together, they have constructed several restaurant projects, firmly founded on the base of a long friendship. In the past, we would have described them as the children of the television age. These days, it is the children of the age of social media who solve the riddles of algorithms, build solid communities around a shared passion and who can trace their route to a cuisine and an architecture driven by commitment. Interview.

Location

Paris

Author

Elsa Cau

Photographer

Constance Gennari

TSF

Julien, Julien, can you introduce yourselves?

Julien Sebban

I’m 30 years old, I lived in London for 7 years before returning to Paris 3 years ago, just before COVID. I work as an architect and designer on different types of projects, restaurants, hotels, residential… I also created a furniture line, Univers Uchronia. I’m married, and I live in Montmartre – I rarely leave the area, which really annoys Julien.

Julien Sebbag

I think you’re talking a bit too much about your job and not enough about your creative universe!

Julien Sebban

You know it defines me… I’ve always lived with colour. It’s essential to me, in my home. We use it at Uchronia too, as a way to make people happy. We try to create cheerful, uplifting architecture, which is not necessarily the case in France.

Julien Sebbag

I’m 31 years old, I’m a chef. I started cooking a little later than many of my colleagues, after graduating from business school. I lived in Tel Aviv and London, I travelled a lot, I observed what was around me and I realized that I really wanted to be in the kitchen, it’s what drives me. It’s a tricky job that’s physically and mentally taxing and also stressful. There are health and safety regulations and issues with management or people, among other things.

TSF

Tell us about your journey as a chef, Julien.

Julien Sebbag

At the time, I wanted to work in artistic circles but during my internships, I realised street food interested me the most, especially as a new approach to the restaurant industry. The latest restaurant concepts and the fact that a restaurant can be a brand meant that from an entrepreneurial point of view, I was fascinated by everything that constituted this new era. I had various restaurant jobs over a few years: washing up, waiter, dining room manager, restaurant manager and, of course, as a junior chef. It was the latter that really appealed to me, I really felt something.

After my studies, I became an on-demand personal chef because I didn’t have the means to open a restaurant and I needed to build my confidence. Besides, it was the people I cooked for who decided I was chef material! People and social networks: I used them a lot from the start to the point of creating a small, tight-knit community centred around cooking. I worked as an on-demand personal chef for 2 years. Then, the Moma group found out about me and asked me to work with them: we did a first pop-up together, Chez Oim, at Bus Palladium. It was a huge success!

Julien Sebban

Chez O_i_m‘s concept was great: it was only open one day a week, on Tuesday evenings.

Julien Sebbag

I needed the rest of the week for my on-demand chef services. And then it became the Bus Palladium nightclub! After a while, Moma offered me another concession, this time at Galeries Lafayette: that’s where we launched Créatures.

Julien Sebbag

It was also my very first restaurant project! It was an entirely vegetarian restaurant and, for many Parisians, the first time they discovered the incredible view from the Galleries! Following on from this successful venture, we created Forest with Moma at the Museum of Modern Art. And then lockdown happened and stopped the project in its tracks. I was bored during the pandemic. I wanted to go back to the street food that made me love cooking. I hadn’t been able to integrate it into our projects until now, it just wasn’t the right fit. So I decided to launch a concept that’s close to my heart: I’m very attached to my roots, and my family origins. There is a traditional Jewish celebration dish that sends me right back to my childhood: challah, the famous braided bread. So I created Micho, my first solo restaurant. It tries to be more than just a restaurant: it’s a universe in itself, centred around food and the customer experience. I sometimes feel more like my restaurant’s artistic director than its chef!

TSF

How did you meet?

Julien Sebbag

Parisian Jewish community is, firstly, very close-knit!

Julien Sebban

Julien didn’t live in the same neighbourhood as me, but I’d known him for yonks.

Julien Sebbag

We’d meet up at holiday camps. But he was a cooler, I was a shy skater, he knew everyone (laughs).

Julien Sebban

Not at all. I just smoked cigarettes! But we had a very good mutual friend during our teen years, and we became good mates around our 17th birthdays… Our friend Paul went to London, I followed and Julien very soon after that. But I remember one evening when Julien cooked, we must have been twenty years old. And I thought, “Ah, you’re not that boring after all” (laughs). Anyway, we became close friends! And then once we’d all finished our studies, Paul went to Japan. We visited him but had no idea where our lives were headed. I had my architecture degree and Julien had launched Chez Oim, but everything still seemed so undecided. I can still see us in Naoshima, wandering around and mulling about our lives!

the biggest challenge in the apartment was how to optimise the space and create a home where Julien could enjoy differentiated areas.

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TSF

How has your upbringing, your family, and your entourage influenced your taste?

Julien Sebban

My childhood was joyful and colourful. My room was orange and the colours changed according to my every whim! It drove my mum crazy, yet she still chose to paint the kitchen orange. I’d already developed my own particular taste. For example, I was fascinated by an IKEA lamp that cost three Francs or so, but it was my first ‘interior design’ choice, I must have been eleven years old. Then, for my twentieth birthday, my friends clubbed together and gave me the Ettore Sottsass Tahiti lamp. It was my first “real” designer piece. I still have it, of course!

Julien Sebbag

I lived in the 9th arrondissement and the neighbourhood really inspired me – it still does.

I lived next door to my grandma. That’s what mainly influenced me, and left a mark on me. The smells of bakeries, the bustle of the 9th arrondissement, the streets I knew by heart, the prostitutes in Pigalle who kept an eye on us when we came home late. As a teen, I took refuge in the world of Tim Burton, who greatly inspired me. I come from a family that worships every day. We also went to Israel a lot. It’s almost a dual culture: Parisian on the one hand, Jewish traditions and community on the other. It also defined my restaurant, with all the festive specialities, dishes from my childhood! Indeed, these traditions are vital to me. They don’t just influence my cooking, but also my life. Cooking with love and sensitivity has a huge impact on the end result. For example, when I prepare food from my childhood or Jewish traditions, such as the dafina we eat during the day on Shabbat or the challah bread served on Shabbat evenings, these dishes make real sense to me. Bread is a religious bread, not just a mundane accompaniment: it’s written in the Torah, it’s a fundamental part of the blessings. These specialities are really important to me, they allow me to put my soul into what I do, and inspire me daily.

Julien Sebban

It’s also important to us, although maybe a bit less serious than with Julien. The fact that I’m married to a man means I have a religious outlook that’s probably a bit more easy-going than Julien’s ingrained traditions. What’s more, we had a secular ceremony which included some of our religious rites, but it was our best friends – including Julien – who married us. Still, this intrinsic tradition of sharing is engrained in us. We’re never alone on Friday evenings, we’re always surrounded by family and friends.

TSF

You’ve done a lot of substantial work together in this apartment.

Julien Sebbag

For me, working with Julien was a no-brainer. Besides, he’s very patient with his friends… (laughs). He takes the time and often visited… Julien and I understand each other, because we’d already created several restaurants together.

Julien Sebban

It’s true, I know his taste by heart! This is his first apartment, it’s an important place and time in life. Well, we got there after a few ups and downs: COVID arrived plus the building almost collapsed (laughs). In brief, the project wasn’t easy, but the atmosphere was fun – very family-orientated since his dad also helped us a lot (Ed: he used to own a construction company). The apartment’s so well laid out, you’d never believe it’s only 40 quare meters. Everything is very functional and above all, we can entertain guests. The toilet is separate, and the kitchen is open-plan, which is great. There are even three concealed fridges, and an ultra-equipped kitchen like the ones in big apartments, the rooms are airy and open… For us, the biggest challenge in the apartment was how to optimise the space and create a home where Julien could enjoy differentiated areas.

Julien Sebbag

The brief was also to create a refuge, a very soothing space, a bit like a secluded holiday island. My days are hectic, I get home late every night, so I need to switch off when I’m there. That’s why I chose an apartment right in the city centre, but overlooking a very quiet courtyard. I also love the Star Wars Tatooine feel, the arches, the plaster, the bench integrated into the plaster (with storage underneath!)

Julien Sebban

We were talking about origins and traditions earlier. I’m of Tunisian origin: there are numerous elements here inspired by the country, a bit like Julien and his dishes. At Micho, you’ll find traditional Ashkenazi and Sephardic cuisine accompanied by his interpretation of the sauce. You’ll also find a strong Tunisian influence in our Uchronia projects. The same goes for here!

Julien Sebbag

My mum is French of Polish origin, and my father is Moroccan, from Méknès and Casablanca, so I’m a mix of Ashkenazi and Sephardic. It shows in my food: I’m as passionate about Strüdel as I am about couscous!

TSF

Tell us about a piece here that you particularly like.

Julien Sebbag

I love the scalloped appearance the breakfast bar, but I adore this central island even more, its shapes soothe me. I’m really proud of this part of the apartment! The papier-mâché breakfast bar chairs were designed by Ukrainian designer, Faina.
That said, I also like the welcoming aspect of the seating area with its integrated sofa-banquette. When I have friends over, we generally settle down on floor cushions, it’s very simple and friendly… In short, there are two living areas, two ambiences, all in a small space!

Julien Sebban

There are numerous references to our joint projects: a chair from Créatures, our Cookie coffee table – a Uchronia best-seller, although we used the high version at Forest at the Musée d ‘Art Moderne de Paris – the resin bar counter is a nod to the tables at Forest Marseille… The sconces are by Franca, a workshop based in Marseille we partnered up with for Forest in Marseille and whose green recalls the beams painted on the ceiling. There’s so much more to add: I’ll end with the bathroom tiles that are from GDB, based near Amsterdam. They’re under thirty years old and design printed tiles. We partnered up with Mosaic Factory, which manufactures Moroccan zellige. We chose the colours and the assortment especially for Julien.

TSF

What does The Socialite Family mean to you?

Julien Sebban

It’s a modern media that highlights all sorts of families. It’s also an affordable top-quality brand.

Julien Sebbag

For me, it’s a brilliant site comprising bipolar opposites. On the one hand, it sells affordable, top-quality furniture that is both a niche and appeals to everyone. On the other hand, it’s a medium that features a variety of pieces and embodies inspiring personalities.

TSF

What are your favourite pieces from our collection?

Julien Sebban

I love the pink velvet Divino Cushion. It’s just like the Berlingot sweets, a step back in time that makes me yearn for childhood treats.

Julien Sebbag

I love your rugs, the Firenze in particular. I think it defines the space.

TSF

Do you have any go-places that you’d like to recommend in the neighborhood ?

Julien Sebban

Micho (46 Rue de Richelieu, Paris 1er) of course! For me, having lunch there on Saturdays is a weekend institution. The perfect place to eat a delicious, healthy and seasonal dish (the menu is frequently changed). As you now know, Julien Sebbag is one of my best friends, I love having lunch alone at the counter and chatting with him while he works. After Micho, a walk around the gardens of the Royal Palace ending at Café Nuances on rue Danielle Casanova for a delicious oat milk cappuccino. It’s a real Saturday routine, I get to visit my friends without the need for an invitation! Incidentally, I’d like to point out that Micho also owes its decor to the genius Gundry & Ducker architects. When I was a student in London, I became a huge fan of the work they did for Vodoo Ray’s pizza place.

In Montmartre, I often go to the Au boncoin restaurant (41 rue des Trois Frères, Paris 18). It’s a neighbourhood institution, with a decor that includes lacquered pastel pink with marble inserts at the entrance. It hasn’t changed in twenty years and still fascinates me. Their vegetarian ‘farçous’ speciality is to die for. Thanks to journalist Constance Dovergne’s newsletter, I recently discovered the Shinya Inagaki bakery (41 rue des Trois Frères, Paris 18), it’s perfect for anyone who loves natural sourdough bread! The opening hours are not the usual ones: from Thursday to Sunday from 4:30 pm to 7:30 pm, no kidding. The queue’s always long, but moves quickly. Putting it simply, the loaves melt in your mouth. (And a special mention to the chocolate cake and apple pie.)

Julien Sebbag

The Mamiche bakery (32 rue du Château d’eau, Paris 10e) and I say this not because they supply all my challah, but because everything they make is delicious! Abri Soba because during winter the best thing in the world is a delicious bowl of soba. Le Syndicat for a tasty cocktail before heading home after the service.

TSF

What’s next for you?

Julien Sebbag

I’m settling down. In 2024, I’ll be calming down and enjoying what I have. 30 years old, it’s the age of reason!

Julien Sebban

The opening of a new restaurant, Taco Mesa in the 10th arrondissement and two exhibitions in January: a collection of lighting for Charles Paris and a presentation of our partnership with Prelle.

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